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August, 2002
Getting creative with oils
The summer is in full swing and so is grilling. We have all done our
burgers, hot dogs, and ribs, so it's time to explore some new grilling
frontiers. An easy way to add some gourmet flair to your summer table
is to make flavored oils. You can drizzle them over meats, fish and
veggies, make superb salad dressing, and dips for bread.
There are many flavors that taste great with olive oil. Garlic
is the most versatile of them. Add rustic flavors of Tuscany to
your meal by drizzling some garlic oil over grilled vegetables.
Just a teaspoon or two does wonders on lamb chops. Lemon oil adds
a very elegant touch to any fish and seafood and is a great base for
salad dressings. It also nicely complements grilled asparagus. The
best friends of flavored oils are fresh herbs. Take advantage of
all the fresh rosemary, sage, thyme, chives, and basil available in
the stores now. You can sprinkle them over your veggies, meats and
fish before grilling, and even throw some sprigs into the fire. Watch
as your neighbors come over to ask what are you grilling that smells
so good. All these herbs can also be used to flavor your oils. Good
country bread dipped in basil oil makes a wonderful amuse-bouche before
the meal.
Even though you'll see flavored oils in fancy restaurants, they are easy
to make and many oils keep for a month or more. The secret to great oils
is the infusing process. Simmering oil slowly with a flavoring agent like
garlic or lemon releases their flavor and lets the oil take on their
character. Garlic oil has the aroma and pungent taste of garlic that
is balanced and not bitter. Lemon oil has the pleasant citrus flavor
that is trapped in lemon skin without the sharp acidity of lemon juice.
Just adding garlic or lemon to oil before serving will not yield a
balanced and intense flavor you'll get with simmering.
The oils made from fruits and vegetables need to simmer until the juices
evaporate. If any juices are left, they will ferment and spoil your oil.
Oils that are infused this way don't need to be refrigerated and can keep
for quite some time. I usually make a big batch 2-3 times a summer.
Don't bother using your best extra virgin olive oil for these oils.
Since they are heated to infuse the flavors, the flavor that
distinguishes extra virgin oil disappears with the heat. Herb oils can
be made without the application of heat by pureeing the herbs and oil in
a blender. For these oils, you can use extra virgin olive oil if it
complements the flavor of the herb. Here are some recipes to get you
started:
Garlic Oil:
1 cup olive oil
10 large garlic cloves minced (or mashed with a garlic press)
Combine oil and garlic in a heavy small pot.
Cook over medium heat until oil comes to a simmer (about 5 minutes)
Turn down the heat to low and simmer for 20-30 minutes or until garlic is
golden brown.
Take off heat and cool completely. Strain through a sieve lined
with a paper towel. Keep at room temperature in an airtight glass
or plastic container, or in a bottle. Best if used within one month.
Lemon Oil:
1 cup olive oil
1 lemon
1/4 tsp crushed black peppercorns
1/4 tsp whole black peppercorns
Pinch of salt
Using a knife, peel the yellow and white skin off the lemons
(not just the zest, but the whole skin). Combine the lemon skins,
oil, salt, crushed and whole peppercorns in a heavy small pot.
Bring to a simmer on med heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer
for 1 hour. Let cool completely. Strain through a sieve lined
with a paper towel. Put some lemon peels back into the oil.
Keep at room temperature in an airtight glass or plastic
container, or in a bottle. Best if used within one month.
Make orange oil by substituting the kin of one orange for the skin
of one lemon.
Basil Oil:
1 cup olive oil
1 cup packed basil leaves
Puree oil and basil in a blender. Pour into a plastic or glass bowl and
let stand for 3 hours at room temperature. Strain through a fine sieve.
It's ok for small pieces of basil to get through the sieve. They only
add flavor. Basil oil will stay fresh in refrigerator in an airtight
glass or plastic container for up to a week.
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